TFL Vsebine / Pravni letopis

Odgovornost za odpadni tekstil trenutno na ravni EU ni harmonizirana, zato države v nacionalnih pravnih redih samostojno urejajo vprašanje odgovornosti za tekstil, ki postane odpadek. V večini držav stroški ravnanja z odpadnim tekstilom bremenijo lokalne oblasti (občine) ali davkoplačevalce, in ne proizvajalcev tekstilnih produktov, ki so primarni povzročitelj odpadkov. Prispevek obravnava razširjeno odgovornost proizvajalca, kakor je urejena v Direktivi (EU) 2018/851, in posebej predstavi izzive ureditve razširjene odgovornosti za proizvajalce v tekstilni industriji. Pri tem se prispevek osredotoči na vprašanja: kaj razumeti pod pojmom odpadek; kakšne so obveznosti proizvajalca, če se neka snov ali predmet kvalificira kot od- padek; kako države v praksi okvalificirajo različne načine zbiranja odpadnega tekstila; kdaj odpadku preneha status odpadka; koga je treba zajeti z definicijo proizvajalca in kakšen je pomen ekomodulacije prispevkov. V prispevku so poleg razširjene odgovornosti proizvajalca predstavljeni še nekateri alternativni pristopi za zajezitev fenomena hitre mode, katerih fokus je usmerjen že na začetno fazo – oblikovanje produkta. Prispevek predstavi možnost ureditve odgovornosti proizvajalca za oblikovanje trajnostnega produkta (»ekodizajn«), ki bi pomenil čim manj negativnih vplivov na okolje, imel čim daljšo življenjsko dobo in bi ga bilo mogoče enostavno popraviti, ponovno uporabiti ali reciklirati.

Responsibility for textile waste is currently not harmonised at EU level, that is why countries regulate responsibility for textiles in their national legislation. In most countries, the costs of textile waste management operation are borne by local authorities or taxpayers, rather than by the producers of the textiles, who are essentially the primary waste generators. This article discusses extended producer responsibility as regulated in Directive (EU) 2018/851 and specifically presents the challenges of the potential extended producer responsibility for textiles. In doing so, article focuses on questions: what is understood under waste definition; what means if a substance or object is qualified as waste; how countries interpret different ways of collecting textile waste; what are the end-of-waste criteria; who should be covered by the definition of producer and what is the importance of ecomodulation. In addition to extended producer responsibility, the article presents some alternative approaches to curb the fast fashion phenomenon. These approaches focus rather on the initial phase - product design - than to responsibility for textile waste. In this context, the article presents the possibility of regulating producer responsibility for product design („eco-design“), which would strive for sustainable products, with the lowest possible negative environmental impact and the longest possible lifetime, products that would be easy to repair, reuse or recycle.

Extended producer responsibility – a solution to curb fast fashion phenomenon?